I’d like to start this post by thanking my husband for working so hard on this trip and planning everything with our travel agent (LOVED working with her and would highly recommend her! I won’t be sharing her info publicly, but if you are looking for someone to help you plan a trip she is your girl and I’d be happy to pass along her information privately!). Second thing to note is that any links in the post are to the Google Map location of the place mentioned if you’re looking for specific details!
Kollin and I always knew that Italy would be a part of our honeymoon, but after months and months of trying to make Italy a part of a multi-country trip we decided to spend our entire 10 days in Italy and I’m so happy we did! Our entire trip included 3 days in Rome and 7 days in the Amalfi Coast. Given the amount of info and pictures I am breaking up the posts into two or more posts to cover the locations with more detail. So, first up is our first three days in Rome.
I had traveled overseas once in high school and been on some longer flights, but Kollin had never flown to Europe before. Working with our travel agent we discovered that flying a smaller airline was not only cost effective, but was such a great experience too! We flew Air Italia from Chicago to Rome and took off from Chicago around 4PM a few days after the wedding. Since we knew we were flying overnight and would arrive at 7AM local time, comfortability was a must so my jogger set and Barefoot Dreams blanket were a great move. The flight was 9 hours and pretty great until about 2 hours before landing. I can be a nervous flier and hadn’t slept much on the flight over and got sick around 5AM from the combination of everything. There’s nothing like puking on your honeymoon flight right next to your new husband to get the newlywed feels started!
Luckily, it was just a nervous moment and not an actual sickness. Kollin was the sweetest (would expect nothing less) and we landed in Rome about an hour and a half later. We met up with our driver and made it into the city in about an hour (traffic can be horrible). We arrived at our hotel, Hotel Art that was right by the Spanish Steps in the Campo Marzio (Rione IV) neighborhood. Our room wasn’t quite ready so we decided to find some breakfast and walk around. I still wasn’t feeling that great so we stayed close by and went over to The Spanish Steps (only about two blocks away) after grabbing a croissant and Coca-Cola (I’m not a coffee drinker so that was my only source of caffeine during the trip and saved me!).
Something to consider: The Spanish Steps are a huge attraction and can be packed during the day. If you want to see them on the emptier side, go early in the morning or at night (picture below) and you’ll have the place to yourself. But, rules have changed and you can no longer sit on the steps. Also, look out for guys “giving” women flowers. It’s a ruse to try and get money out of you. We had a couple weird run ins, but my biggest take away was to just ignore them and give a firm ‘no’ when they ask anything or try to hand you something.
To be completely honest, our first couple of hours in Rome were not that great. I wasn’t feeling well, we were both tired and had been harassed by the flower guys after getting yelled at by a cop for eating the croissant by the steps. Unfamiliar with the culture, we just weren’t aware of the tourist areas or our surroundings. We headed back to the hotel to check in and against all advice from friends and other travelers, we napped. It. Was. Life. Changing. I felt like an entirely new person ready to take on Rome.
Hotel Art was beautiful and had a boutique, artistic flair compared to the other hotels in the area that really embrace the “oldness” of the buildings. It felt contemporary and young while also fitting in perfectly with the glamorous and fashion-forward Spanish Steps neighborhood. While the room was small, it had everything we needed and was perfect for our short 3-day stay. We grabbed some lunch at a cafe nearby called Canova in the Piazza de Popolo - we loved the pizza and bruschetta. After lunch we walked around and did a bit of window shopping. I would compare this area to Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles, CA. Surrounded by high-end designers, ateliers and seriously the most beautiful people I’ve seen in my life, it is hard not to feel luxe there.
After a couple hours it was time to head back to the hotel and get ready for dinner. Kollin’s one request of the entire trip was to have a Michelin Starred restaurant experience. We decided on Moma and the six course pre-fixe menu. The menu was inspired by the chef’s childhood and the dishes that invoked nostalgia for him. Needless to say, it was amazing. Kollin did the wine pairing and you couldn’t have paid him a million dollars to wipe the smile off of his face. The restaurant was small in the best way, modern and very welcoming. We had the place to ourselves until about 8:45pm when the locals showed up for dinner. The sommelier explained all of Kollin’s wines and why he chose them for each dish. It was truly an experience and I cannot recommend Moma more for their impeccable service, delicious menu and elevated, but comfortable atmosphere. Be sure to make a reservation in advance!
After dinner we were dropped back off at The Spanish Steps (its like a promenade and cars can’t drive on it so there are meeting points for cabs and cars to stop at and you walk from there) and spent some time walking back to the hotel taking in the city at night for the first time. Obviously we were on our honeymoon, but Rome at night is one of the most romantic experiences I’ve had. Something about the light in Rome during the day and night is completely magical. We knew the following day was going to be fully packed so we went straight to bed and found getting to sleep to be pretty easy. My biggest jet lag tip? Take a shower before bed each night rather than when you wake up to relax you and tell your body it’s time for sleep. Your feet will also be filthy so you’ll need to shower anyways lol. And a glass at wine at dinner always helps!
We woke up so excited because it was the day we were going sightseeing. After going to the same cafe as day one for breakfast we jumped in a cab and headed to The Colosseum. We decided not to take the tour inside (we don’t regret this, but would definitely do it when we go back), and rather walked around the outside. We walked all the way around and loved seeing the different sides and perspectives. After walking around I remembered I wanted to try a place I had seen on a blogger’s (The Blonde Atlas - amazing travel content!) Instagram called The Court that is a Michelin starred rooftop restaurant in Palazzo Manfredi and sits right in front of the “Ludus Magnus”, the largest Gladiator training camp in Ancient Rome. We didn’t make lunch reservations there due to the high price tag, but we had a drink (delicious) and took in the incredible view. If you go: ask for an Aperol Spritz with tons of ice.
something to consider: head to the eastern side of the colosseum on the via nicola salvi for a great view and picture moment. It sits at a high point and offers a great perspective, but, be mindful that this spot is very touristy and the flower dudes / people selling things will be there along with other people trying to take pictures.
After a drink we walked around to try and find something to eat. To each their own, but we were against the idea of going somewhere that Americans flocked to. These tend to be places with “fast” food and lack the cultural experience of dining like locals. For example, we learned to avoid really crowded outdoor cafes or anywhere with pictures on their menus. When standing in a place, listen to the conversations and if the majority of people are speaking Italian or the crowd is older - you’re good!
We ended up finding a walk up counter/cafe a few blocks off the main street (also a place to avoid tourist traps) and Kollin had one of his favorite meals here. It was called Bar Gastronomia and he got a lemon caper chicken dish and I got the most amazing ham and cheese grilled sandwich. We sat among the locals in air conditioning (it was very hot that day) and decided what to do next. As we ate we watched the Italian cooking channel that was on the TV and listened to a few businessmen on their lunch break a couple tables down. I think the entire meal cost $8 and was delicious. Places like this one are a great way to eat on the go without having to break the bank at a more traditional sit-down restaurant.
We decided to walk through Ancient Rome and had the best time just taking our time. It was very hot so there were frequent breaks in the shade and to just stare at all the history surrounding us. We walked through Palatine Hill and saw Orti Farnesiani sul Palatino (ancient gardens), the Forum of Caesar, and the breathtaking Altare della Patria. We hadn’t seen the Trevi Fountain yet and we didn’t realize how far we had walked so the 0.7 mile walk wasn’t too bad. We stopped in so many corners and buildings on the way there and it was crazy how you can just turn the corner and see something as magnificent as Trevi Fountain. It was very crowded and hot so we didn’t spend a ton of time, but we grabbed a gelato, snapped some pictures (don’t know how Kollin got the solo one of me with no people lol, but I’ve heard going early in the morning (6AM) is the best time to avoid crowds) and then headed back to the hotel.
According to legend, tossing one coin into the Trevi Fountain means you'll return to The Eternal City (Rome), tossing two coins means you'll return and fall in love, and tossing three coins means you'll return, find love, and marry. We each tossed one coin in considering the whole marriage thing already happened lol.
After relaxing for a bit and changing for dinner we remembered a place we had passed on our first day trying to escape the flower dudes. It was called Caffè Ciampini di Marco Ciampini and was one of the most memorable parts of our trip. They opened right at 7pm when we arrived so the place was empty aside from a larger area of the restaurant where a wedding reception was being prepared. The outdoor dining space is filled with greenery and lanterns and has a view that overlooks Rome. You can even see St. Peter’s Basilica in the distance. The staff were so friendly and told us all the places to get the best pictures, pointed out monuments and not to mention we had the best mozzarella of our entire lives here. I ordered the gnocchi and Kollin had a seafood dish. We watched the sunset while listening to the church bells from the wedding and took in the new families in the other room come together in such happiness. It was a pinch me moment and I highly recommend going for a romantic dinner or even just dessert during sunset.
During dinner, we were discussing what to do next. We had wanted to do some more during nightfall to experience the city more and the jet lag was getting better so we weren’t as tired. We had been told by multiple people to see Trevi Fountain at night and decided to take a quick 5 min cab over to see it (with more gelato, of course). It was just as, if not more crowded, but it does warrant another visit as it was beautiful. We took a walk around the Trevi neighborhood and heard live music coming from somewhere. We looked around a few blocks and as it got louder, the crowd got bigger. We had stumbled upon a live performance of two guys playing violin and guitar to popular American songs. As we approached they were playing Justin Beiber’s remix of Despacito and it was amazing! The crowd was so lively and fun that we stayed for a few songs and danced along with about 100 other people. I was told that they are a popular group and are around that area often!
We quickly realized the time and knew we had an early morning so we went back to the hotel for the night. The next day was the only “planned tour” we had of the trip to The Vatican. Being Catholic, this was always a special bucket list moment for me, but Kollin was equally excited to witness such a historic site. We were married in the Catholic church too so he now has new understandings of the religion, history and meaning behind the sacred location. Our driver picked us up at 8AM in front of the hotel and we had about 3 other couples in our group.
I highly recommend getting a private tour set up to avoid the long lines and crowds outside. They vary in group size and price and will not only save you time, but will provide you with a guide to explain your experience rather than an audio tape. Also remember to wear something conservative regarding skin showing. Since it was hot I opted for a maxi dress and added my jean jacket while in the chapel. They don’t have air conditioning in most parts of the Vatican as an FYI. Our guide told us that in July and August they have nurses and doctors in every other room for all the people who faint from the heat. Crazy!
Our tour guide was AMAZING. We learned that while in The Sistine Chapel there is not supposed to be any talking and the tour guides are not allowed to point anything out or share information while inside. You also cannot take pictures (Kollin broke that rule below). Our guide stopped our group before going inside and pointed out the elements of the room and described to us what we should look for. One of my favorite parts of his chat? The room is painted to look like it had architectural features on the walls. The curtains, moldings and other features are illusions done with painting. It was mind-blowing to see in person. He let us stay in the room for about 20 minutes and then over our ear pieces announced quietly when he wanted the group to meet again. There were about 300 people in the room total so Kollin and I made our way to the middle and just took it all in.
In addition to the Sistine Chapel, he took us through the museums and everything took about 4 hours total. After the tour, the guide mentioned how if we followed the Vatican wall on the outside for about half a mile we would reach St. Peter’s Basilica. We of course wanted to see it so we grabbed some gelato (duh) and started walking. As we approached the square we saw how long the line was to get inside the Basilica. It was about 3:30PM at this point and the doors closed at 5PM so we decided that we wouldn’t wait in line in the case that they’d close before we got there. This ended up being a regret of the trip because we didn’t have time to go back and try again while in Rome. While I don’t think we would have gotten in in time, we will definitely be waiting the next time we are in Rome! We hung out in the square for a while and a couple of women came up to us asking to take our picture. We told them we were on our honeymoon and they fawned even more taking 50+ pictures lol.
With some time to walk around before finding a place for dinner we decided to get lost. With no destination in mind we just took off into the Borgo / Tor Di Nona neighborhoods once outside Vatican City. We stumbled upon Castel Sant'Angelo and walked across Ponte Sant'Angelo and into what felt like the most “local” part of our time in Rome.
We walked through the neighborhood and saw quaint cafes, families heading to mass, a group of boys playing soccer, and the most picturesque flats and homes. Italy’s culture lends itself to a very laid back, welcoming and warm atmosphere. Aside from the flower dudes, I don't remember interacting with any rude or unpleasant people. A few parts of the culture that we discovered while there were more so around tourism and experience. Firstly, despite Kollin’s need to tip everyone sight, tipping isn’t standard for services like dining and drivers. Many times this fee is built into the bill or just simply not expected. We tended to leave a little something when dining at cafes and we tipped the American standard for the Michelin restaurants as the experience and service were exceptional, but many of the drivers and others we interacted with had looks of confusion on their face when Kollin handed them some bills.
One other thing that surprised me was having to pay to use the restroom. This wasn’t everywhere, but mostly in transit based places like the train station or airport. After our first experience with this I carried around a couple coins just in case, but mostly everywhere we went there wasn’t a need.
The last cultural aspect that was new for us was that restaurants will charge you for water. We expected this for bottled water, but experienced it for tap as well. The water in Rome is completely safe to drink and we even had some people tell us to drink from the natural fountains in the city (we didn’t, but saw locals do this a lot). We took a water bottle with us everywhere and would refill from the tap throughout the day to save on the lunch / snack bill when out. Ice also isn’t really a thing when dining and drinks will come chilled, but if you’re into ice in drinks that aren’t cocktails then remember to ask for it!
As we kept walking around we noticed that the crowds started getting larger and we walked right into the Pantheon. It is a temple built circa 118 to 125 A.D. with the iconic dome and Renaissance tombs, including Raphael's. We had to wait in a short line to get in, but the temple is free to visit (not all monuments are, but are usually a low fee to get in).
We had walked about 5 miles at this point so we jumped in a cab back to the hotel and decided to get dinner in that area. We walked around a bit and shopped before dinner and by that point were famished so we stopped at a street cafe and while it was good it wasn’t super memorable. We should’ve taken our own advice about eating out, but when you have to eat you have to eat. After dinner we shopped some more and bought some things for family and friends back home. We took in a couple more hours of Rome at night before going back to the hotel and packing for our next destination: The Amalfi Coast. Our driver was meeting us at 10AM to go to the train to Naples.
We woke up so excited and got ready for a day of travel ahead of us. We got in the car to the train station and on our way there we hit some bad traffic. This wasn’t unusual because coming into Rome it was pretty backed up as well, but as we hadn’t moved in 10 minutes, our driver got out of the car to see what was going on. When he opened the door we could hear chanting and police began blocking the street. We had driven straight into a university protest. It was unclear to us what they were protesting, but we waited another 20 minutes before the police would let us pass. We considered walking the rest of the way as it wasn’t too far, but the roads were cobblestone and we had three big suitcases with us that were all overweight lol. We had plenty of time to make the train and the driver couldn’t move anyways so he didn’t mind. He did however have to call his next pick up and let him know he wouldn’t make it. (Interesting fact: Uber is illegal in Rome, or at least everywhere we were. Your best bet for cars is a taxi or car service through your travel agent or hotel. If you’re brave enough to drive, good luck!).
We eventually got to the station and made our train to Naples. About an hour and fifteen minutes later we got off and met our driver inside the station. His name was Antonio and he barely spoke English. We didn’t have too many interactions with people who didn’t understand English, but Antonio preferred to speak into his Google Translate app and then show us the English translation on the screen. We did this back and forth our entire ride to the coast and had the best conversation with him about his background, childhood, America and how he said we were about to be in Paradise in the Amalfi Coast. His words about the location were perfect because where we were headed next was the most magical place I’ve ever been.
